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She says designs like Unsaid’s bubble-cut diamond ring (the largest lab-grown diamond ring yet), Patcharavipa’s diamond briolette and bead designs, and novelty cuts by the likes of Dayagi Diamonds – duck-shaped diamond, anyone? It’s not about sparkle and brilliance, it’s about uniqueness and having something that different individuals don’t have,” she says. This is predominantly jewellery that’s designed to be worn every single day, and Mimi Hoppen, director of jewelry at Dover Street Market, believes that will be the chief consideration driving purchases in 2023. “I think types that are really for everyday wear quite than occasion jewellery will be well-liked,” she says. She points to the continuing recognition of signet rings from the likes of Ilaria Icardi, the jewellery designer who doubles as Bottega Veneta’s ready-to-wear design director, and Raphaele Canot’s effortless diamond earrings.

• Fashion’s ’70s and ’80s affect (see Saint Laurent spring/summer 2022) encourages the rejection of delicate,